Sunday
07Mar2010

Cherry Blossom

It is a while since I posted to this blog since I have been busy with other things. However, it is now only three weeks until I go to Japan and I am experiencing excitement and terror in equal measure. I have been corresponding with a Japanese couch surfer and she told me an interesting thing that I don't know about cherry and plum blossom.

Plum blossom, it seems, is associated with Chinese cultural influence whereas cherry blossom is seen as the distinctive characteristic of Japanese cultural identity. I love the idea of cultural identity being associated with blossom. I guess here it would be the rose perhaps?

One thing I have been struggling a little with is finding a credit card that you don't have to pay to use in Japan. I have found a couple I just seem to be having problems getting hold of them. In addition, I haven't yet identified a way to potentially get emergency cash sent to Japan if the worst happens and I get robbed of everything.

Friday
15Jan2010

Benefits of Pilgrimage

In traditional terms, there may be ten benefits to observing the Saigoku Pilgrimage:

1) One will not be reborn in hell or as a hungry ghost or animal.
2) One will truly reflect (on Amida) at death.
3) The pilgrim's household will have friendly relations with the Buddha.
4) The Sanskrit letters of the six Kannon will be set in one's forehead.
5) One's well being will be perfect.
6) One's descendants will flourish.
7) At the end of one's life a memorial service will be given by a priest.
8) One will be born in Fudaraksu (Kannon's paradise).
9) One will definitely be reborn in the Pure land.
10) All one's wishes will be fulfilled.

In more personal terms, I see the pilgrimage as an opportunity to connect with Buddhist heritage. In this case, the heritage stretches back more than a thousand years in some places. The pilgrimage functions as a heuristic, enabling me to weave my way through the cultural legacy of Japanese Buddhism.

In addition, travel propels us into a liminal space in which we are opened up to new experiences , which may inspire meaningful and lasting change. The pilgrimage is understood as a process of spiritual death and rebirth, enabling me - the pilgrim - to be renewed.

I am also particularly interested in the material expression of spiritual values. Through articulating my commitment to Buddha's values - and in this case Kannon - I make my spiritual life more real. This commitment will be evidenced in my (hopefully) completed pilgrim's book. I will have a physical record of the committed journey that I will have made.

Thursday
14Jan2010

Couch Surfing and other Stuff

I am currently looking to make some connects (as they might say in the Wire) in Japan. To this end, I have joined the couch surfing network. This may result in connecting with some people who might put me up for the night or simply some people to meet and perhaps visit a few cultural sites with.

I have also, with the help of Kyōshin,  identified a few locations in the Kyoto area associated with the life of Shinran, a Kamakura Buddhist visionary who has inspired me a great deal over the past few years. I hope to visit some or all of these sites. Fortunately, one of them, the Rokkakudo, is on the Saigoku trail anyway!

I have also come across a book by Shiro Usui called A Pilgrim's Guide to Forty-six Temples which includes both some of the Saigoku temples but also quite a number of other temples in the Kyoto area that I aim to visit. It's not a great book but does have some useful information in it.

Another friend, Shengyen, has been helping me with some advice on my route which is shaping up nicely. The main thing that I am now concerned about is that I won't have long enough in Japan to see everything I want to! But then, perhaps one can never have enough time.

Sites Around Kyoto Associated with Shinran

Higashi Honganji - The 'cathedral' of the Higashi Honganji branch of Shinshu.

Rokkakudo - the 18th temple on the Saigoku Pilgrimage.  For Shin followers it is important as the place where Shinran Shonin had a vision of Kannon / Prince Shotoku
Hoonzo (on Mt. Hiei) - where Honen Shonin experienced his conversion to the senjaku nembutsu (exclusive nembutsu).
Shoren-in - Shinran was ordained here aged 9.
Ninaido - Shinran practised joygyo-zammai (walking meditation contemplating the Buddha) at this site on Mt. Hiei as a Tendai doso.
Eikando - this temple is famous for its autumn leaves and the famous 'Amida looking back' statue
Sunday
10Jan2010

Saigoku Itinerary

I have now worked out how to get to all 33 temples on the Saigoku route. There is a fantastic train timetable service available via Hyperdia, which has enabled me to determine how long it will take me to get to each temple and how much it will cost. I am currently working out the most time/money efficient route to cover all of the temples.

I have realised that my travel costs are going to be as much as my accommodation costs and this is making me think about revising my budget. I may have to consider staying in dormitory rooms in hostels at least for part of the time.

As I continue my research, bits of knowledge about Japan keeps floating up: geishas, origami, capsule hotels, and vending machines that sell used girls' knickers (I swear I read about this once - I will verify but not purchase).

I am also considering what other things I want to do in Japan besides the 33 temples. Buddha by Osama TezukaI have discovered that in Takarazuka, not too far from Osaka, there is a museum dedicated to the god of Manga, Osamu Tezuka. I am currently reading his series of books about the life of the Buddha and so hope that I might make it to the museum.

I will probably follow an itinerary that orbits Kyoto and returns there two or three times over the course of the month with stays in Nara, Osaka, Himeji, and possibly Nagahama in between. Once I have more or less settled my itinerary, I want to engage in more cultural research into Japanese history.



Wednesday
06Jan2010

More on Hibutsu and Travel

Ian Reader has given me a schedule of which hibutsu (secret Buddha) are open while I will be in Japan. However, this seems different from a list I was sent by a sendatsu (pilgrim guide) so I need to check all this.

It turns out also that Ian - besides being a world authority on Japanese pilgrimage, - has also written on Japanese amulets so I will read up on this before I go.

I have now managed to book accommodation in a Japanese inn, known as ryokan, for the first 3 days of my stay in Kyoto.Ryokan Hiraiwa Finding accommodation is proving more difficult that I anticipated and I may have to stay in a Western style hotel. at some point. Ryokan often have Japanese-style, tatami mat rooms and it will be great to experience this for at least a few days. I hope at some stage to stay in temple accommodation at least for a night or two.

I have now sorted out travel insurance and am working up my itinerary in more detail.